TL;DR
Mount Everest climbers are preparing for a crowded summit attempt as the season peaks. The official rope fixing to the top is nearing completion, with hundreds waiting at camps for their turn. The season is marked by high permit numbers and recent safety incidents.
Mount Everest climbers are preparing for a surge in summit attempts, with the official rope fixing nearly complete and hundreds of climbers waiting at high camps, amid reports of high permit issuance and recent safety incidents.
As of May 12, the Sherpa team responsible for fixing ropes to the summit is expected to reach the peak on May 13, only slightly delayed from 2025. Nepal has issued a record 492 permits for Everest this season, the highest in history, with hundreds of climbers stationed at Camps II and III awaiting their turn for the summit push.
Climbers and guides anticipate severe crowding on the route during the next weather window, which is forecast to open around May 17. Some expeditions are waiting for a second window, while others are preparing for the current push. The increased permit numbers and the approaching weather window are key factors driving the expected congestion.
Recent incidents include avalanches triggered by heavy snowfall, which buried tents and supplies at Camp I but caused no injuries, and the death of a Sherpa worker, Phura Gyalzen Sherpa, who fell on the Lhotse Face on May 11. The official rope fixing team has encountered delays, prompting unofficial efforts by expedition leaders like Mingma G to secure a route to the summit.
Why It Matters
This situation matters because the high volume of climbers increases risks of accidents and logistical challenges on Everest, a peak already known for its dangers. The crowding could lead to longer exposure times at high altitude, complicate rescue efforts, and impact safety protocols during this critical phase of the season.
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Background
The 2026 Everest season is notable for the record number of permits issued, reflecting high demand. The season began with delays due to weather but is now in full swing. Past seasons have seen similar crowding, but the current permit volume and recent safety incidents highlight ongoing concerns about safety and environmental management on the mountain.
“It’s just 8:30 P.M. in Nepal, and a long line of climbers is seen on the Lhotse wall, ferrying loads to the South Col. There will be more climbers in a few hours.”
— Mingma G, expedition leader
“The conditions were okay. I was worried about conditions deteriorating so I pushed and did it quite early.”
— Polish ski mountaineer Bartek Ziemski
“Our summit force team had got into a terrible avalanche on 10th May… our tents and necessities got all destroyed but by god’s will me and my entire climbing Sherpa brothers were safe.”
— Pastemba Sherpa
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What Remains Unclear
It is still unclear how the crowding will impact safety and timing once the summit push begins. The exact number of climbers who will reach the top during the current window and how weather conditions may change remain uncertain. Additionally, the final route for the summit remains under discussion, with unofficial efforts complicating official plans.
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What’s Next
Next steps include the completion of the rope fixing to the summit, the actual start of the summit push, and monitoring weather conditions. Authorities and expedition leaders will need to coordinate to manage crowding and safety as climbers attempt their ascent in the coming days.
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Key Questions
When will climbers start their summit attempts?
Climbers are expected to begin their summit attempts once the rope fixing is complete, likely in the next few days, depending on weather conditions and logistical coordination.
How many climbers are attempting Everest this season?
Nepal has issued a record 492 permits for Everest this season, the highest in history, with hundreds of climbers at high camps awaiting their turn.
What safety concerns are associated with the current season?
Recent avalanches, high crowding, and delays in route fixing pose safety risks. The death of a Sherpa worker underscores ongoing dangers during the season.
Will there be a second weather window?
Some expeditions are waiting for a second potential weather window around May 17, which could affect the timing and volume of summit attempts.
